Your North Little Rock event can't look bland! Nice flowers can be found in your city - or very close by!
Party Categories
 
Advertise With Us!
 

Florist & Flowers
 
See above for featured listings of Florist & Flowers, Bouquet, Wedding Florist, Flowers Online, Online Florist, Flower Delivery, Florists, Flower Shops, Florists, Flowers for your Weddings, Parties, and Events. We offer local and national listings of Florist & Flowers, Bouquet, Order Flowers Online, Flower Arrangement, Flower Delivery, Wedding Bouquets, Floral Arrangement and many more.

Share/Save/Bookmark

Flowers are important for many events, especially your wedding. Wedding flowers and a beautiful bridal bouquet can be arranged by a local North Little Rock, AR florist for your wedding. Of course, you'll want to find the best, freshest, most beautiful wedding flowers and arrangements you can find. If you'd rather find a florist online, you may even be able to find a florist who offers a flower delivery service, where you can purchase wedding flowers online from the comfort of your home or office. These online florists will typically deliver wedding flowers right to the site of your reception event in North Little Rock, AR and will even set up the flower arrangement for you. You can't get any better service than that for your wedding in North Little Rock, AR!
North Little Rock Florist & Flowers may also serve the following areas: Keo, Hensley, Ward, Conway, Redfield, Benton, Salem, Cabot, Sweet Home, Little Rock, Mayflower, Wrightsville, Alexander, College Station, Bauxite, Maumelle, Roland, Mabelvale, Lonoke, Woodson, Little Rock Air Force Base, Bigelow, Austin, Jacksonville, Bryant, Vilonia, Sherwood, Scott, and Pulaski County.

Florist & Flowers News and Information
  • July's hot tips on maintaining flower garden
    • Planting* If you are lacking summer color, it's not too late to set out these plants: ageratum, begonias, celosia, chrysanthemums, coreopsis, gazanias, gloriosa daisies, impatiens, marigolds, petunias, portulaca, sea lavender, sweet alyssum, zinnias. * Start seeds of campanulas, columbine, coreopsis, delphiniums, forget-me-nots, and foxgloves to plant out in September.* July is the month to start new plants from herbaceous perennials. Cut five-inch stems and remove flowers of carnations, geraniums, marguerites, Shasta daisies, penstemons and verbenas. Root them in damp perlite.* At the end of the month divide overcrowded clumps of iris and spring-flowering bulbs. Replant into beds prepared by deeply digging in organic amendments.Soil management* July and August are the best months to solarize your garden soil to get rid of weed seeds, insect pests, and diseases. For information on soil solarization, visit the Master Gardener Web site at: http://groups.ucanr.org/mgnapa/index.cfm.* Renew the mulch around plants to keep them cool and conserve moisture.* Continue to monitor the soil moisture and check the drip system for clogged sprinklers and emitters.Maintenance* Stop pruning these spring-blooming plants now: vines and trees such as azaleas, dogwood, redbud, spirea, forsythia, flowering quince, wisteria and some roses shouldn't be heavily pruned unless they are dormant. Excessive pruning from midsummer into fall will reduce next year's blooms. However, trimming a gangly shoot here and there to maintain the proper shape is fine.* Encourage more blooms by deadheading (snapping off spent flowers) the annuals and pinching back the tips of chrysanthemums, fuchsias and geraniums.
  • Coneflowers (Echinacea) works with bugs
    • Coneflowers Good To GrowEveryone is getting excited about echinacea these days – and not just because it's a pretty flower. Recent scientific studies have proven that taking echinacea daily does help us resist the common cold.The usual method is to buy a bottle of a tincture made from the roots, then put a few drops in a glass of water every day. This is said to strengthen the immune system. However, don't do it you have an immune system disease like Lupus.Medicinal properties aside, echinacea is a delight in the garden, easy to grow and tolerant of poor soil. It reaches about a metre high, with flowers that have curious droopy petals. The seedheads, which keep getting bigger and bigger as the summer wears on, look like beehives.(Leave them on the plant all winter, as some birds love the seeds.)The most common kind is Echinacea angustifolia, which has pale pink flowers. However, since echinacea is regarded as a "hottie" plant, growers keep coming out with new varieties – some good, some less so. A couple of years ago, I tried one with orangey flowers called MeadowBrite and it promptly died. This year, though, I picked up a variety called PixieMeadowBrite at Sheridan's. It's a real charmer, and is producing a non-stop parade of peachy orange flowers.Grow echinacea in a sunny spot. It looks best in clumps of at least three. Although often touted as drought-tolerant, I find this plant tends to droop in dry weather, but it recovers nicely after rain. It's also – a big plus in my book – rarely bothered by bugs.
  • Primer on plant problems, how to treat them! Part One
    • Your garden is off to a great start this season and everything's looking great, you don't have a care in the world and then: Whack. All of a sudden your prize tomato plants are turning wicked colors of yellow or brown, perhaps dropping their leaves as we- DAMPING OFFSymptoms: Very young (newly seeded) flower and vegetable seedlings either fail to come up or rot off at soil level soon after the emerge.Cause: A variety of bad fungi (rhizoctona, fusarium, Phytophthora and a few others) that live in the upper layers of seed-starting (or garden soil) bed.Remedy: I think most gardeners know that using a sterilized potting mixture when planting seeds indoors is a fail-proof method in avoiding this type of disease problem, but what about outside in the open soil? There are a few things you can do, such as building raised beds to ensure good drainage (since these disease fungi are activated by damp soil). Also, compost has scientifically proven disease-fighting power that, when used as a seedbed material, drastically eliminates any chance of seedlings damping off. Just be sure to lay down about a one-inch layer over the bed and don't mix it into the soil. Plant your seed right on top of the mix. I also use sterilized soil-less mixtures to cover the seeds after planting to insure that they will sprout in a near-sterile environment.-POWDERY MILDEWSymptoms: Whitish-gray powdery coating on leaves, buds, and often blossoms of vegetables (cucumbers are notorious), and flowers (roses, lilacs and phlox). In severe cases, leaves may turn yellow and become deformed and buds may fail to open.Cause: Spores of bad fungi (erysiphe, sphaerotheca to name a few) that are spread by wind and encouraged by hot, dry days and cool nights .Remedy: You can save yourself plenty of headaches by choosing plant varieties that are resistant to powdery mildew if they are available. That not always being the case, you'll need to take other action. It actually thrives in dry conitions. A neat and easy trick is to actually spray the plants with a strong spray of water during the early stages of powdery mildew. This tactic alone might be enough to thwart an infection, as you will literally knock the disease spores off the plant. If that doesn't work, a great homemade solution to combat powdery mildew can be made by mixing one tablespoon of baking soda, one tablespoon of vegetable oil, and a single drop of dishwashing soap in one-gallon of water. Shake the mixture well and apply with a pump sprayer on the plants until they are saturated and dripping. This is a mixture that I'll use on vegetable crops, but often flowers and shrubs need stronger fungicide. Products like Immunox and Daconil work very well.- ANTHRACNOSESymptoms: Sunken spots (up to a half-inch in diameter) appear on the skin of ripe tomatoes affected by this disease. The center of the spots usually darkens and forms concentric rings.Cause: Colletotrichum coccodes fungus.Remedy: Anthracnose thrives in warm, wet conditions, so try and avoid overhead irrigation where possible. To prevent spreading the disease, do not work in the garden when plants are wet. Be sure to stake, trellis, or cage your tomato plants so that the fruit is kept away from the soil surface. Make sure to harvest tomatoes as soon as they are ripe and when you find an anthracnose-infected tomato (it's inedible by the way), be sure they are tossed into the garbage pail (do not compost).-RUSTSymptoms: Orange-yellow, brown, or purple pustules appear on the underside of leaves. Affects many types of plants, but beans, roses, geraniums, hollyhocks and snapdragons seem to catch the worst cases of rust. Eventually, the upper leaf surface becomes mottled with yellow patches, and the leaves shrivel and fall off. Severely infected plants become stunted and may die.Cause: Many species of fungi that belong to the Uredinales order.Remedy: This is a fungus that thrives in warm, wet conditions, so again, avoid overhead irrigation in favor of drip irrigation wherever you can. Water in the morning rather then sending the plants into the evening with wet foliage. Allow plenty of room for air to circulate and pluck any infected leaves as soon as you see them. Strict garden sanitation is important in controlling this disease. There are several chemical fungicide products to use in controlling rust, depending on the type of plant.